When I was first looking into bouldering, one of the terms I came across frequently was boulder problem. The word “problem” sounded odd in this context, but it came up often enough to warrant a search.
So what is a boulder problem? A boulder problem is the specific route one takes when climbing up a gym bouldering wall or an outdoor boulder. A boulder problem is usually 7 to 15 feet (4.57 meters) high, and is made up of a sequence of moves that are climbed without a safety rope or other equipment.
Why Is a Bouldering Route Called a “Problem?”
A bouldering route is called a problem because it takes some figuring out: before physically starting on the route, we have to study it and try to work out the best way to climb up. Not everyone will use the same moves on a given problem, depending on such things as the person’s size, strength and experience. Figuring out the problem is a very personal step in the sport of bouldering.
A boulder problem typically has 5 to 10 holds or moves. The hardest move on a problem is called the crux.
Sending a problem means to reach the top successfully, without falling or making contact with anything but the rock. Touching anything other than holds and the wall will weaken the success of your send. For example, if your spotter accidentally touches your back, or your foot slips and brushes against the crash pad, this is called a dab, and is considered subpar performance.
Are There Different Types of Boulder Problems?
There are many different types, but here are some of the more common ones:
- A slab is a wall that is almost vertical, that angles only slightly away from you. Slab climbing is a very good way to improve your footwork. Stiffer shoes will make it easier on the feet, and it is important to rely less on hand grip and more on proper foot placement. Keep as much of your weight on your feet as possible.
- With an overhang, the wall leans in towards you. Upper body and core strength are crucial, and the more the wall leans in, the more difficult it will be to keep your feet on the wall. Practicing on overhangs is a good way to prepare for roofs.
- A roof problem has you like Spiderman, upside down gripping the ceiling. In this type of problem you are making your way along the underside of a horizontal surface. This is a very difficult type of problem, requiring a lot of core strength. A lower grade roof problem will have larger holds, something to keep in mind that may improve your chances of success. Personally, I do not yet have anywhere near enough strength to tackle roofs.
- An arête is a problem where you are climbing up a corner, as if you were working your way up the outside edge of a building. Heel and toe hooks are used to keep from barndooring off the arête. Barndooring is where one loses their grip and swings out away from the wall.
High Problems, Low problems?
The upper limit for a bouldering problem is 20 feet (6 metres). Some people consider 8 feet (2 ½ metres) to be a tall problem, while any problem over 15 feet (4 ½ metres) is called a highball.
A spotter should be used because these higher problems can cause serious injury in case of a fall. Highball problems in particular call for careful preparation, from making sure there are enough crash pads to being absolutely certain that you can do it before you even start. A highball problem is not the place to try out new moves.
I was surprised to find that there is indeed such a thing as a lowball boulder problem. Predictably, these are very close to the ground, and they are often started from a sitting, or even a lying down, position. Although they are not considered “sexy”, and they are not highly regarded in the bouldering world, lowball problems can be a great way to get some practice on unusual moves, such as trying out your luck on roof problems.
On a side note, jumping down from any height, even on low problems, can cause hip and joint damage over time, so it is always best to down climb, or descend, rather than to jump off the wall.
What Do Circuits Have to Do with Boulder Problems?
A circuit is a series of boulder problems that are meant to be completed in one go. A circuit will usually include many different types of problems, which is an excellent way to practice various techniques, build endurance, and work on any weak areas in your bouldering skillset.
Circuits are graded by level of difficulty, and each circuit is identified by a specific colour. When you do a circuit, you follow the holds that have that colour. All of the problems within one circuit will have approximately the same grade (see the V scale information below), but some will be more difficult to perform (such as overhangs, for example). This variety is what makes circuits such a great training tool, allowing you to find out where more practice or skill is needed.
The holds for a specific circuit will be identified by colour-coded tape stuck to the wall next to the hold. Some gyms use coloured holds instead of tape, where the holds themselves will be the same specific colour all the way through the circuit.
Related Questions
What does V mean in bouldering? The V scale, developed by pioneer boulderer John Sherman in the 1980s, is the grading scale used to define the difficulty of a problem.The V scale starts at V0, for people new to the sport, and increases in difficulty as the number goes up. The difficulty is based on technical skill and physical demand (and not on height or scare-factor). Some gyms may also offer a VB grade, for very beginners.
What is the difference between bouldering and climbing?
- Sending a bouldering problem takes less time, but generally uses more power and strength, than traditional climbing.
- Bouldering problems are much lower than what is normally ascended in traditional climbing.
- Bouldering does not use the equipment needed in climbing such as harness and ropes. All that is required for bouldering is chalk and climbing shoes.
- Climbing requires a second person to act as the belayer, while bouldering is done solo. This makes bouldering a great option when a partner is not available.